Bus to the Roof of the World and Debates at Sera Monastery
Introduction to Lhasa…
As the heart and soul of famed Tibetan culture, the former home of the Dalai Lama has a mystique that no other city in the world can rival. The imposing Potala Palace, which dominates the skyline, strongly settles what is at the forefront of Tibetan minds: Buddhism and their beloved Dalai Lama. Although he is now exiled in India, the religious fervor practiced on the streets and in places like the Jokhang Temple make a trip to the roof of the world anything but ordinary.
Traveling to Tibet by bus (18 hours) turned into a much better decision than going by train or airplane. Not only was I able to hop out and take breathtaking pictures at our stops along the way, but I also had a slightly more gradual adjustment to the altitude climb. Going from the desert, which I assume is at or near sea level, to an altitude of 3600m (nearly two miles above sea level) can have dramatic consequences. Fortunately, other than a minor headache and being out of breath with any real physical exertion, I am feeling pretty good.
It is important I mention my first view of Tibet because I can not think of any better way to introduce the country (“semi-autonomous region,” to be politically correct.) The bus made its final pit stop at 7am, waking up everyone in the process. I stumbled off with my used People's Liberation Army coat, and was presented with the most enchanting sunrise I have ever seen. There was lush greenery all around me, a crystal-clear stream running to my left, trademark mountain ranges on all sides, clouds of the purest white, and a blue sky being overtaken by rays from heaven. Such natural and unadulterated beauty I have never known existed.
Before I continue with more of my travels, I want to stress that the Tibetan culture might be all that surpasses the Tibetan landscape. Unfortunately, I cannot describe the culture as easily as it can't be captured with a photograph. Suffice to say that they are the kindest, most vibrant and colorful, welcoming and enchanting people I have come across. Any injustices that have been handed down to them are a disgrace to all of those who dealt it out, and to those who knowingly stood by and allowed unwarranted desecration and mutilation. If nothing else, it is a testament to the Tibetan people that they have not lost any of their magic.
As for the rest of the drive into Lhasa, I saw endless yaks, goats, wild horses, and Tibetan pilgrims. The yaks are free to roam, and move across the roads the way elephants do in Africa. Similarly, we came across a band of wild horses that were galloping along the side of the road. There were numerous pilgrims who would bend in worship, and then lie completely prone with their arms stretched in the direction of the Potala Temple. The pilgrims would then rise and re-peat the process, but with their feet in the same location as their hands were a second before - basically moving forward one body length at a time. Seeing this kind of devotion 40 miles outside the city makes it even more frustrating to think of all the religious persecution the Tibetans have suffered.
The main thing on my mind when I arrived at my hostel in Lhasa was how I was going to reach Nepal. I was worried that I would not be able to find anyone traveling overland, and all of my plans would be ruined. As luck would have it, I struck up a conversation with two German students at a restaurant while we were eating lunch at adjacent tables. They are also heading to Nepal, and agreed to postpone their departure a few days so I could tag along and keep costs low. Fate must owe me a few favors because I have been riding the wings of fortune thus far. Additionally, they have both traveled to India and Nepal before, which means I will have even more information before arriving!
Even though I had only been in Lhasa for two hours, I didn't want to just sit around and I decided to start seeing nearby temples. With directions from my hostel, I caught a bus to the outskirts of the city in search of Sera Monastery. This complex is one of the oldest of the Gepung Order, and there were once over 5,000 monks studying here.
Upon arriving, I immediately made a Kora, or clock-wise mini-pilgrimage around the monastery walls.
The walk took me well off the beaten path and into the “hills” (mini-mountains) surrounding the monastery. I came across a well-hidden monastery that still had a concealed picture of the outlawed Dalai Lama. This is a huge offense in Tibet as the Chinese government will arrest anyone in possession of such a picture, and although such things are never stated, techniques far worse than imprisonment are not far from the norm.
Further on, I joined three Tibetan children playing a form of jump-rope near a collection of small caves. I sat resting for half an hour (the altitude is wearying) and learned the technique of the game. After my breathing became normalized, I hopped into the jumprope and began the skipping they showed me - left foot, left foot, clap clap, right foot, right foot, twist and stomp! I was horrible at the game, but the two 12 year old girls and 13 year old boy were laughing hysterically.
When they saw how out of breath I was from the game, they led me to a small brook further in the hills. Their grandmother was there washing clothes, and she had me sit down while she helped me wash off in the cool Tibetan water. Although the water was frigid, I did my best to sit still while she poured a bucket over my head. It has been a long time since I have basked in such authentic smiles of mutual appreciation.
Thinking things could not get any better, the children then led me to a ledge where I was able to take in terrific aerial views of Lhasa. Seeing the monastery below me and the imposing Potala Palace in the distance made the moment feel too good to be true - I was only three hours off the bus in this new world and already I felt like I was floating through heaven.
After I hiked back down the mountain, I entered the Sera monastery complex to watch a famous set of debates that occur among the monks. It is a way for the “wiser” monks to test and challenge the younger monks on philosophical issues - and they do not go easy by any means.
Upon entering the main courtyard, I saw that all the monks were gathered into small clusters on the white rocks that covered the ground. Each cluster had a head monk who stood over the others while posing questions to his pupils. However, each question was accompanied by a dramatic body motion and a violent smacking of the hands in the direction of the intended pupil.
The way it works is the following: the monk will slap as loudly as he can every time he poses a question, and will slap in such a way that it is clear who he is questioning - meaning he gets right into the face of the other monks. Needless to say, it made for quite a scene as dozens of monks were slapping their hands and stomping the rocks as loudly as they could while the pupils argued their responses.
The debates ended at around 6pm, and since Tibet is on Beijing time there was still plenty of sunlight left in the day. After catching another minibus back into town, I winded my way through the small walkways in the heart of Lhasa.
The markets and items for sale are far different from those in China. There are no factories mass-producing goods (although it is moving in this direction with the recently completed train from Beijing), so most things on sale are unique and interesting. Further, there is an endless maze of alleys making it easy to get lost shopping with monks, farmers, tourists, and any one else who may have found themselves on the roof of the world.
As a final note, I slept like a baby after my first shower in five days, and my first bed in an equal length of time. However, I couldn't escape the feeling that I was floating on an island in the middle of the sky, and that I could topple at any moment. The best analogy I can think of is the feeling one gets while flying, or the rocking one experiences while on a boat - it is expected that there will be movement in both circumstances. That Tibet is stable is a reality I am having a hard time getting used to.
Video of the day: My Ticket to Tibet
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