August 04, 2006
Lhasa (TIBET)
Lhasa
After a breakfast overlooking the Tibetan sunrise from the hotel rooftop, I made my way to the heart of Tibetan Buddhism – the Jokhang Temple. From the moment I walked through the large doorway into the courtyard the significance of the monastery became apparent. All around me were pilgrims performing the ritual bows and chanting hymns that are characteristic to Tibetan Buddhism. The smell of yak butter and incense wafting through the smoke filled air gave the scene a mystical feel, and the deep hue of red robes only added to the spiritual element.
Moving through the inner walls of the Jokhang became an even more enriching experience. In the center of the monastery were rows of brightly-colored benches used by monks chanting mantras. Surrounding the central area were many small shrines, and an inspiring two-story tall Buddha. Along the outer perimeter, there was a thick stream of people as the worshippers moved through the shrines (always in a clockwise manner). Unlike tourists, visiting a monastery is an all day affair, and every sight along the way is deserving of money or a prayer.
I was fortunate enough to strike up several conversations with monks who spoke English at the Jokhang. One of them was a younger monk who simply showed me the living quarters, the kitchen, and a bathroom that was complete with a giant poster of the famous English soccer player David Beckham. However, there was an interesting elder monk on the upper floor who was re-filling an enormous monkey-shaped basin with chang (Tibetan barley beer) for the passing pilgrims. With beer splashing all over my clothes as he tried to pour and the endless pilgrims tried to drink, the monk spoke extensively about his hopes for the future and his strong desire to “see his Lama” again.
While I have been able to capture some terrific shots of the Tibetan landscape and architecture, I have very few photos of the Tibetan people. Whether it is giving money to beggars, prostrating in front of holy sights, or chanting hymns in front of the Buddhist figures, Tibetan Buddhists come to Lhasa once in a lifetime as part of a pilgrimage to better their karma. Taking pictures of such acts is something I have not been able to do - just as I would not want endless tourists taking pictures of my brother’s baptism or my sister’s wedding.
Since I still had several hours before my time slot at the Potala Palace, I went to the unfrequented Tibetan museum. My guide book warned of extensive propaganda throughout the museum, but I could not believe my eyes as I read the various accounts along the walls. I ended up sneaking plenty of pictures because I doubted many people would believe the Chinese government would be so audacious as to use terms such as: “Tibetan liberation”, “democratic reform in Tibet”, and Tibet as being a part of the “cultural tradition in China”. Perhaps the line that was most relevant to my day (given all the destruction that occurred at the Potala and Jokhang) was: “thanks to the cordial concern of the Central Committee of the Chinese Communist Party… [for] the preservation of [Tibetan] cultural relics”. I should not be writing about such things, but I have become extremely disillusioned with the many destructive aspects of China.
Things got slightly better in the afternoon as I climbed the stairs to the imposing Potala Palace. The buildings suffered extensive artillery fire and bombing during both the Cultural Revolution and the “Tibetan liberation”, which left many rooms barren. Making things worse, the 110 resident monks are not allowed to wear monk robes!
I was tired of biting my tongue for fear of the endless Chinese guards circling – especially after the rewarding experience earlier in the day. Consequently, I spoke with every monk I came across, and thanked them for sharing such beauty with the world. The main idea I emphasized was that despite all the degradation and destruction the country has been subjected to, the monks should remain proud of a magnificence that cannot be destroyed. Several monks had tears in their eyes as they explained the former use of the rooms, making it evident that the scars from history have not been forgotten – or forgiven.