My first day in Katmandu did not go very well. The city is overflowing with vendors who sell everything from cocaine and hashish to fine silks and tiger balms. It has been difficult adjusting to the endless touts, pick-pockets, and pushy-vendors after spending so much time in the friendly pace of the Tibetan plateau. Making matters worse, I made the mistake of getting myself tangled up with a local tout...

In the past I have made sure to stay away from all touts (men who "get you things", often on the sly), but I was in a bind when I found out it takes 7-10 days to get an Indian visa. The recent terrorist bombings in Mumbai, as well as the United States’ warnings of further attacks in India, only further complicated matters for me. To make a long story short, I spent the better part of the day organizing my visa, a trip to a Nepali national park, and transportation into India with the help of the touts many “contacts”…

It was stressful trying to work everything out, but it was also interesting because I was able to follow the tout around as he negotiated with a variety of people. I felt like a bit of a celebrity because everywhere we went in the city he was recognized and greeted. Looking back on it, I may have been an unsuspecting sheep being led on by one of the cities most notorious prowlers – and everyone was in on the joke, but me!