My rhythms and pace are completely off pace with the native Hindu population. Before arriving in Nepal, all I knew about Hinduism was that it is a polytheistic religion, and the most important god is Shiva (God of Destruction) - certainly an embarrassing and insufficient background given that 90% of Nepal are devout Hindus.

I had my first “breakthrough” when I came across a large concrete pit in one of the city’s older districts. There were broken clay pots and spilled dies caking the ground in a messy array of confusion. Adding to my bafflement, woman and children were bathing in small fountains, and sitting in groups on the dirtied ground. I stood watching unable to figure out what on earth could be going on until I found a group of locals who explained everything to me…

Today is the first Monday of “the month of Nepal” (lunar calendar), and as such is a day of worship for the God, Shiva. The pit I referred to is used by Hindus to consult with a sakhu (Hindu holy man) and receive a tika, or blessing from the gods. The most common tika is the widely recognized red smear on the center of the forehead that can range from a small dot to a mixture of yogurt, rice and sindur (red powder). Much like the all-seeing third eye of the Buddha, the tika is a sign of divine presence and is meant as protection for those who wear it.

I also heard several first-hand accounts on the ubiquitous fighting the western world associates with Nepal… Historically a monarchy, Nepal has undergone slow democratic reforms as a result of popular uprisings. Predictably, the relinquishment of royal power is a slow and strenuous process that has not been helped by a popular likeness for stately royalty (similar to Britain).

The rise of the Maoist rebels was spurred on by government corruption, but was formerly restricted to small villages in the countryside. It was only recently that they have risen in enough power to directly challenge the military in large cities like Katmandu. Most of their attacks are targeted at the military (monarchy), but anyone who disobeys their orders faces harsh punishment…

I met an English student doing volunteer work in southern Nepal who was riding on a public bus during a Maoist strike period several months ago (when fighting was at its worst). Rebels stopped the bus, and because the driver was operating against Maoist orders, he was shot in front of all the passengers. It was a gruesome story that I have had a difficult time getting over.

As a follow up to my dealings with the tout, I ended up canceling all contracts with him. I suffered from $15 in sunken charges, but I had a very bad feeling about the way things were going. He was talking about leaving my passport with him so he could take care of the visa, and that he would catch up to me in several days with a bus to deliver it. There was no way on earth I would leave my passport with anyone (I carry it in a pouch inside my pants at all times), and this was the perfect reason to excuse myself of his services.