August 27, 2006
Agra (INDIA)
The Taj Mahal
By 6am this morning I was riding in luxury to Agra on the wheels of India’s fastest train, the Shatabdi Express. It was a good thing the service was impeccable and the conditions warming because I only got a few hours sleep during the night...
Besides arriving after midnight, India’s chronic power supply problems caused me even bigger problems: the electricity to my room shut off only seconds after I entered my room (intentional?). Forced to feel my way around with the light of my camera, it was the heat that got to me. I sweated the night out lying on a hole-infested sheet. Nothing to write home about, and certainly not a good first impression for Delhi. Such is India.
Arriving in Agra, I hired a rickshaw driver for the day because many of the sights are spread out. Not wanting to waste any time, I went immediately to the Taj Mahal. I must admit, I was fairly skeptical about the “teardrop on the face of eternity.” I figured there have been too many amazing words for the Taj to ever live up to expectations.
I have never been so wrong.
After walking through the imposing gates and perfectly kept courtyards, I had my first glimpse while staring down the fountains: I was overcome with awe. My heart quickens just thinking about it. I do not want to go on and on about the Taj because I can not do it any justice, but let it suffice to say that it is worth visiting India just to see the Taj Mahal. Honestly.
I spent far longer than I expected relaxing on the marble floor in one of the exterior openings of the Taj. I hope that, upon my death, I can be layed against one of these same walls with a good book in hand and fresh wind from the river blowing softly on my soul. I guess what I am trying to say is the Taj is the kind of place you never want to leave.
Unfortunately, there was still much more to see in Agra, the former capital of the Mughal empire (Akbar the Great, etc). I visited the tremendous Red Fort, which is positioned just up the river from the Taj. The fort itself had all kinds of amazing treats inside: water flowing through the walls to keep the rooms cool, breathtaking views of the Taj, a palatial wine vineyard, inspiring thrones of onyx and marble, intricate marble and gold carvings, and of course, ramparts that immediately negated any chance of being over-run.
For the rest of the afternoon I visited the so-called “baby Taj,” other small temples, rode a camel, and visited a marble carving factory. None of this mattered because all I could think about for the day was the beauty of the Taj. As evening arrived, I sat across the river watching the setting sun work its magic – the marble visibly changes colors depending on the color of the sun’s rays. Endlessly inlaid with precious and semi-precious gems, the reflections are magical. The whole building is magical.
