Hidden Wonders of Dunhuang

Gobi Desert Photo Gallery

                A little about Dunhuang (敦煌)…

Dunhuang, or Blazing Beacon, is a southern city in the Gobi Desert that is hemmed in by Egypt-like sand dunes and a bleak, pebbly desert. Before becoming a Han garrison town, the early residents were mostly Tibetan and Uighur - signifying its pivotal location along the Silk Road. The world-famous Mogao Caves (Mogao Shiku) are located here, making it arguably the most important archaeological site along the Silk Road (the caves are the most significant site for Buddhist statues and frescoes). In total, there are hundreds of caves containing Buddhist figures and paintings on the inside, but only several dozen are open to the general public.

I hopped off the train at 7:00 this morning, and immediately set out in search of a bus for the remaining two hour ride to Dunhuang. Since time is never on my side, I also went ahead and booked an evening bus for the city of Golmud (Ge'ermu), which is the launching point for buses to Tibet. After taking care of logistics, I found a Western café called Shirley’s where I spent two hours talking with all the other travelers who happened by. In the process, I hooked up with a brother and sister from Holland, as well as a Czech who would also be continuing on to Lhasa.

Much like Turpan, the weather was unbearably hot in Dunhuang. However, the various sites (particularly the caves and sand dunes) made enduring such discomfort worthwhile - this might as well be the theme of traveling. Pictured to the left is a surviving oasis nestled between towering sand dunes.

The first place I visited were the Mogao Caves. There was an impressive museum at the entrance, but this was nothing compared to what could be found inside the park.

An English tour guide was provided, and it turned out to be very useful since I know so little about Buddhism - although I still found the entrance price of 200rmb (USD$25) to be extremely expensive. Inside the caves, there were a couple of astonishing creations of Buddha that measured 35 meters in height. Try to imagine walking through a small opening set in the side of a sand-encrusted wall and being confronted with such an imposing sight. The toes and fingers alone were as large as me!

Although pictures were strictly forbidden, I a quick internet search yielded what I was looking for. The massive sleeping Buddha (shown to the left) is a sight I will not soon forget - pictures simply do not do justice to the imposing size and intricate artwork. Our guide explained artisans were recruited from places such as the Middle East, India, and southeast Asia to complete the detailed sculpting and painting.

Later in the afternoon I continued touring the city of Dunhuang, and in the evening I caught a bus to Golmud. For the first time in the past three nights I actually had a bed to sleep on - even if it was only a five foot sleeping compartment on a bus without any shock absorbers. I had to curl up in the fetal position so I would fit and I had my backpack tucked against me for safety. I left me window open and enjoyed the setting sun as I left the Gobi Desert.

Of everything I have seen in the Gobi Desert, the evening bus-ride was easily one of my most rewarding experiences. The desert winds whipped across my face as the shadows from the setting sun danced across the dunes. It was as moving a sight as any I have seen. I tried to take pictures and video, but they don't come close to re-producing the moment.

Later in the night I happened to wake up and look out my window. What I saw was something I have only heard about: a sky glowing with more stars than could possibly exist in the universe. The bus was quite literally in the middle of the desert (we traveled 30 km/hr because of the dreadful road conditions), and the sky was alive with stars. I looked around on the bus, but since everyone else was sleeping I felt an even greater sense of amazement. I could see entire galaxies and constellations… I am not sure if these sort of experiences make me any better as a person, but they are certainly some of the most rewarding experiences I have ever had.