Ge'ermu: A Tibetan Permit and My Ticket to Lhasa

Gobi Desert Photo Gallery

Early this morning, my bus from Dunhuang arrived in the small and nondescript town of Ge'ermu. The town is desolate and hardly worth visiting were it not for one very important factor: a Tibetan permit and accompanying transportation can be arranged from the small office shown to the right. The total cost of the visa, 20 hour bus ride, and four pre-paid nights at a Lhasa hostel came to 1700RMB (roughly USD$220), which is a massive rip-off - locals only pay 400RMB. Regardless, I wasn't going to walk away from my chance to visit Tibet.

After filling out the necessary forms and explaining my intentions for visiting (tourism - NOT journalism), I was left with a couple hours before the bus departed. I found a small market where I bought a People’s Liberation Army jacket for USD$8, and my fear of the Tibetan cold was slightly allayed. This jacket is the only addition I am making to the wardrobe that saw me through the heat of the Gobi Desert.

Truthfully, what I could use more than clothing and permits is a proper shower. It has been four days since I have last bathed, and although I have done my best using bathroom sinks and garden hoses, I will be relieved to un-encrust myself of dirt. Under normal conditions, four days is a long time to go without cleansing, but after factoring in the desert dirt, recycled clothes, and dried sweat, I am a real sight to behold...

As far as the bus ride is concerned, it will take roughly 20 hours and an altitude adjustment of 3100meteres. I will post more once I reach Lhasa.

This closes my journey into the Gobi Desert. My lasting impression is that it is a region far separated from the rest of China - the language, cultures, habits, and people are all different. While safety is obviously something that should always be at the forefront of one's mind, it is entirely within reason to enjoy every second of travel here.

If even I can do it, any one can do it!

Finally, some interesting facts to re-cap my experience since the journey began...

Nights spent in a bed: 2 / 8 (25%)
Days without a shower: 6 / 8 (75%)
Average money spent per day (excluding Lhasa permit): $19
Journey of a lifetime: Priceless.