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June 1, 2006

Shanghai (CHINA)

Putting My Views of China into Context

Shanghai Photo Gallery

Boy picking his nose on way to schoolThe past two weeks have been a blur. Whenever I think of how to put into words everything I am seeing and experiencing in Shanghai the best I can come up with is that the city has been everything I ever dared to hope for while still offering so much more. I am always hearing different statistics on growth and population density - statistics from the government in China are notoriously inconsistent - but one thing is clear: Shanghai is on the movie. In the mornings there is an onslaught of traffic as hordes of bicyclists and motorcyclists fight for the gaps left by public buses and taxis – not to mention the way in which the disciplined traffic guards fearlessly direct traffic from the middle of intersections.

Many of my social and political perceptions have turned out to be true, but they are still taken out of context (or come from a Western point of view, if you prefer.) For example, I expected the extremes between the “haves” and “have-nots” to be absurd and unsustainable. While this may still prove to be the case in the long run, economic disparity is a way of life in China. Everyone has a job to do (or a role to play), and the Chinese accept this. A big difference in America is that the populace is able to complain about the injustice of “the system,” whine how they have been wronged, and generally entertain a mindset of “it’s not fair." Since there are NO outlets that listen and encourage this kind of behavior in China, the populace gets on with their lives in an orderly fashion.

Side alley near Nanjing LuI remember hearing endless warnings to be careful in China because of crime. However, as poor as people are in China crime is virtually non-existent. I feel safer here than I would in any American city, but perhaps it is only because no one would dare harm a Westerner. The dirtiest, most poverty stricken areas still abide by the disciplined set of rules imposed by the government. This does not mean the Chinese are polite and honest because that can often be far from the truth. They look to make money every chance they get (and they do not care about you unless you have something to offer them), but it is more related to flexible ethics than outright breaking the law.

Posing on overpassAnother thing I have noticed is that government policies are less disruptive than the people who bring them up. Hot topics are taboo in China, and best left untouched. The greatest strength of Americans is our passion for debate in that it is the means by which we rise to new challenges and maintain our edge. However, the Chinese are far less independent and free-thinking. If something does not affect their lives in a direct and tangible sense, it is not worth thinking about. It is a much more realistic way of getting on with life, but it also comes at a cost…

Beautiful girl posing as manequin in shop windowAs intelligent as many Chinese people are, they are somewhat lacking in the communication, problem-solving, and leadership skills found in western countries. Free-thinking is discouraged from day one, and since many decisions come from one’s parents, the development of independence comes at a much later age. Further, the lack of debating controversial topics and exposure to a variety of ideas leaves the Chinese at a severe disadvantage in problem solving. They simply do not have the background or skill set to solve new problems as quickly as those raised in western countries. Every time I want to get something done, I find that I must go through endless people because very few Chinese people know how to figure out something new. Lastly, the leaders in China acquire power through “guanxi”, or relationships, not necessarily through ability. Everything is about who you know. While this is obviously true in other parts of the world, there is FAR less emphasis on being capable and competent, and far more emphasis on pulling strings and getting around red tape.

Some of the first things I bought in China were a soccer ball and a bicycle. I could not resist playing soccer with the students every day at the on-campus soccer field, nor could I pass up the chance to pedal the streets at rush-hour. It is a thrill competing for the road as horns are blaring endlessly. Nobody stays in their own lane (virtually no “laws” are followed in China, and even fewer are enforced), and the honking is used as a way of saying “I am bigger and I am coming, you need to move immediately.” Surprisingly, it works quite well because everyone understands this and acts accordingly.

Typical meat and rice restaurantAs far as food is concerned, I have not gotten sick and I have quickly grown to enjoy using chopsticks. I've still been eating a lot of Gong Bao Ji Ding (Kung Pao Chicken) at an on-campus tea house for only $1/meal. It is the best Chinese food I have ever had, and I used to hate ordering Chinese food.

I am sure one would expect this, but Chinese food in the U.S. is nothing compared to the traditional foods prepared here. It is like comparing microwavable lasagna with what is made in Sicily. Also, I never realized Chinese Fortune Cookies were strictly an American invention – nobody in China knows what they are!

Other good meals that have had me coming back for more include:
- Dumplings: meat or vegetables wrapped up in a thin dough (similar to tortellini) – price: 12/$1
- Hot Pots: an eating style whereby a large group sits at a circular table and cooks their food in a boiling pot in the middle. There are a variety of foods to choose from (meats, fish, vegetables, beans), but there is hardly ever an English menu. The first time I ate this with friends I followed our waitress into the back kitchen and pointed out what we would eat – price: varies depending on foods ordered

There are obviously an endless variety of other foods, but the staples are clearly rice, noodles, and chicken. Some of the odd foods I have had include: chicken heart, chicken claws, liver (not sure what animal), squid, octopus, duck, goose, eel, dog, and several others that slip my mind. A big part of the problem is that I will eat things having no idea what they are since 99% of the menus are strictly in Chinese characters. I usually find out what I am eating when a Chinese friend asks “How is the [insert animal body part]?”

Famous Pearl TowerOne major concern with China is pollution – it is awful. Many other students on the trip have gotten sick, and the sun can never be seen directly. It is one of the first things I noticed when I arrived, but there are many measures being taken to  improve this (a field GE is aggressively pursuing). Regardless, it will be difficult with all the industry in the surrounding regions, and as more and more people buy cars matters will only exacerbate.

As far as my course load is concerned, I am taking Deformable Bodies (Mechanics of Materials), Microeconomics, and Chinese I. All of the courses are being taught by Georgia Tech professors, 75% of whom are of Chinese descent, who came with our group of 50 Georgia Tech students. "Moving the classroom to Shanghai," is how it is termed.

Scaled down model of ShanghaiThere are two people specifically in charge of organizing events for us, as well as at least 20 Jiaotong students who are always more than willing to be of assistance. So far, we have had everything from visits to museums, the city planning center, famous city attractions, cultural orientations, language orientations, dinners, and a banquet. The Chinese love to eat, and most events are focused around food.

Last night, I went with a few other students to eat a traditional Chinese dinner in celebration of the “Dragon Boat Races” in Shanghai. We were served over 20 different dishes, and I learned to play Mah-Jong after we ate. It was a blast, and fortunately 75% of all university students in China speak English. Unfortunately, most of what they learn is grammar rather than conversational skills (the Chinese love to test their students endlessly, and what is better for that than grammar)!

Shanghai Map


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