October 10, 2006
Taipei (TAIWAN)
A Highlight of My life
Much like a child anticipating his presents under the Christmas tree, I eagerly looked out the window this morning to see all the protestors gathered across the street. Taiwanese National Day has arrived, and roughly 1.5 million people came along with it.
I joined the crowds of supporters donning my red shirt, and it was not long before I was given red hats, red ribbons, and endless pins for additional support. The excitement was tangible, but what really struck me the most was the friendly atmosphere. Children were being carried on the shoulders of parents while mini-marching bands (consisting primarily of over-sized drums) set the tempo. It was similar to a carnival, except the streets were a river of red protestors united in a common cause.
The first order of business was to march through the Taipei streets and surround the Presidential Palace while the President, Chen Shuibian, gave his National Day speech. Guards and barbed wire prevented any encroachment, but it was clear that there was little to fear. The people simply sat in the streets chanting “A-Bian… Xia Tai!” [A-Bian… Step Down].
However, several members of the opposing parties in Congress created a stir in the background of the president’s speech as they fought with one another, and struggled to throw chairs at the president. When news of these events reached the crowd, there were roars of laughter and invigorated appeals for reform.
I was fortunate enough meet many Taiwanese while sitting outside the presidential gates, and they were able to translate everything for me. Indeed, one of the people I spent most of the morning with was a Taiwanese model. We got along surprisingly well, but age is very important in Asia because they favor stability in a relationship. Unfortunately, I will have to wait a few more years before luck can finally smile on me.
After the president’s speech, the people continued marching. The crowded streets were similar to the rush after a sporting event when everyone tries to file out through the same exits, except here there was no unfriendly pushing or shoving. Indeed, children and the elderly were given priority in all directions, and it was impossible to find anyone not enjoying themselves.
I had to break for lunch as hunger was getting the better of me, but I met a Swedish girl working for Amnesty International in the process. She spoke excellent Chinese, and we were able to spend several hours at a sushi bar sharing a laugh with the locals.
During lunch, I was finally given a Chinese name. For some time I have been searching for a name meaning “small fire that will some day be large”, but it has proven difficult for native speakers to translate properly… Until today. Without postponing the excitement any longer, my Chinese name is Dai [surname, no meaning except that it sounds similar to Davenport] Ming Xu. The meaning of Ming Xu is something like “bright sun that is rising”.
After lunch I rejoining the throngs of people gathered near my hostel – this is where the main stage and endless stalls are positioned. I listened to several speeches in Mandarin, and growing increasingly frustrated at my inability to understand the content, I went back to Taipei 101 (tallest building in the world) intending to ride the elevator to the top. The building is designed to look like bamboo, but in my mind it looks closer to chinese take-out boxes stacked atop one another.
Once again, the $15 price of admission made me shy away at the last minute. It feels silly typing this because $15 is a lunch in America, but the money feels like so much more in Asia.
Maybe it was karma that I chose not to go to the top of Taipei 101 because when I got off at the metro station on the way back there was the largest mass of people I have ever seen. This is where my day became one of the most memorable ever…
I climbed atop the metro station as the front of the procession marched by. This was the second main event for the day, where the 1.5 million protestors walked down Taipei’s main throughway. Caught up in the moment, I found myself waving my arms to quiet the marching protestors. When I had their full attention, I began the chant, “Ah-Bian!”, and they quickly followed with “Xia Tai!” The chanting went on and on until the people broke the chant to clap for me.
I cannot explain the rush or excitement of standing atop a building with tens of thousands of people clapping in appreciation. Nor can I describe the rush [my legs were trembling uncontrollably with adrenaline] as I led the chant for such a large mass of people. As the procession marched on this process was repeated over and over until all 1.5 million people had walked by.
One of the other highlights was when the leader of the protest movement, the man who founded the DPP Party and spent 15 years in prison for his work, led the clap of support from his podium. It was remarkable that a man I have read about endlessly in the newspapers acknowledged me. What a turn of events.
I had many reporters and cameraman interview me as I “worked”, and there were endless photographs taken by the people as I chanted. When all was done and the people had marched on, those around me assured me that I was the newest idol of the country.
The reason I was so well received is simple: the president has been saying all along that the protestors make the country look bad in the eyes of foreigners, and that foreigners do not support them. The fact that I was so interested in their politics and supportive of their cause meant a great deal. For the rest of the day people approached me telling me what a wonderful thing I had done. It was a remarkable feeling.
That night the protests continued amid National Day fireworks and musical performances from famous Taiwanese pop stars. As night approached, phase three of the protests began when the remaining 500,000 people laid down in the streets refusing to get up. They were tired after a long day, and seeing the people relaxing on newspapers and blankets chatting with one another made it seem like just another day at the park.
Around midnight, the police tried to break up the people and open half the road. Despite calls from the leaders to obey the police, there were several thousand protestors who refused to move. There was quite a scene when several thousand riot police marched down on them, and I felt my heart stop for fear of violence. Fortunately, calmer heads prevailed and the police backed off.
Of all the people who attended the protests, it was a tiny minority who chose to cause a disturbance in this manner. The other protestors all chanted to obey the police and cross the street, but some protestors were either too frustrated at the lack of change, or too desperate to make headlines.
On a similar note, I should emphasize that hardly a single protestor thought that the protests would make a difference. They simply wanted to make sure their voice was heard, and to let it be known that corruption is unacceptable. I will leave Taiwan not being able to speak highly enough of the people. They have the same culture as the Chinese, but their educational levels and societal bonds are light years more advanced.
I spent the evening and early hours of the morning chatting with several local students I met. They were great fun to talk to. I feel like I must gravitate to the most amazing people because each day is full of an endless number of interesting conversations. I wish I could mention them all.
Around 4am, the riot police came back in full force hoping to clear out the sleeping dissidents. Most of the protestors had crossed the street as instructed, but roughly 150 others were prepared to defy the oncoming 15,000 riot police force. It was a very scary moment as smoke canisters were thrown and shielded police officers wielding batons lined the streets.
One moment worth mentioning was when I had to cross the street to gather my belongings for my early morning flight (the bus left at 5am). Thankfully, the police officers saw that I had no mal-intent, and I scurried across the empty streets in what felt like the eye of the storm.
Coming back with my belongings, I repeated the process of breaking through the blockades and was welcomed with warm smiles and pats on the back from the protestors when I crossed the street. Next, the students showed me to the bus station (only a block away, and it was where the police were headquartered) as we watched several police convoys depart with arrested protestors. It was exciting to be up close to all of the day's events, but I am thankful no one was injured. It would have ruined what turned into one of the most memorable days of my life.
I want to extend a deep thanks to my mother for paying for my flight to Taiwan so that I could take part in all of this. I never imagined I would have had so many wild experiences in such a short time, and it would not have been possible without her support. Thank you, Mom.
