August 27, 2007

Si Phan Don (LAOS)

Traveling to the 4000 Islands in Southern Laos

Having seen most of what Champasek has to offer yesterday, Jo and I were once more packed and ready to hit the road early this morning. Our target for the evening was to reach Si Phan Don (meaning 4000 Islands) by nightfall, which is over 100 miles south of Champasek. We were once more at a loss as to how we would get there, but we were told that if we waited by the only road heading south we could eventually hail down a lift. We figured this meant it would be another long day on the road so we relaxed over breakfast as the mighty Mekong rolled along ten feet below us.

When we finally got going we backtracked along our route from yesterday - motorbike to the ferry, cross the Mekong River, and walk to the side of the road where we waited. Fortunately, a sawngthaew came by without too much fuss, but it was already full of people so our only option was to ride on the roof. We threw our backpacks atop and scurried up the side as the truck started pulling off. We were the only ones up there and we were once more sitting atop piles of baggage so we were both free to sprawl out under the mid-morning sun.

Well, I thought I was free to do sprawl out, but that was before I felt something moving under my legs. I looked down and saw a thick plastic bag with holes cut into it so fresh air could get in. My first thought was "Holy s***! Snakes!" and I jumped away. After prodding the bag I realized it was only chickens in there (three in total), and I did my best to keep them away from bothering us.

Imagine: there we were, riding on the roof of a sawngthaew in southern Laos with chickens scuttling around in a plastic bag between us. How I love life on the road!

By 3pm we reached the ferry crossing for Don Kong, the primary island in the Si Phan Don region. We had a one hour wait as there was only one ferry and no one is ever in a rush in Laos. In the mean time we sat at a small noodle stall on the side of the road and had a bite to eat. We bought a couple bottles of Beer Laos that we shared with a group of locals, and once more we received the warmest welcoming possible - it was obvious that these locals never get to interact in such a way with a white foreigner. To make things even more interesting, I challenged a local man to a chili eating contest, and I stupidly ate two 2" chilies (one green and one red). I love spicy things and have never met some one who can handle more than me, but even this made me break into a sweat and I was overcome with hiccups. Actually, it probably wasn't hiccups but rather my body's feeble attempt to regurgitate what I just forced down it. Oh well, it's all about earning respect.

We crossed the Mekong river on another ferry and checked into a guesthouse for the night. The island was even more deserted than Champasek, and there was quite literally no identifiable center of town. It was perfect for us because - for the second night in a row - we were the only ones checked in our guest house and we had a chance to relax.

Later in the evening we ate dinner at the only place with foreigners (seven in total), and after striking a conversation with a married Austrian couple we decided to join them the following day on a boat/bicycle tour of the Mekong rapids. So much for sleeping in tomorrow!