August 28, 2007

Si Phan Don (LAOS)

Bicycling to the Mekong Rapids at the Laos-Cambodia Border

Jo and I were up with the sun this morning so we could check out of our guest house and still make it in time for our 8am boat departure. Last night we booked a seat on a small boat heading to the southern islands of Si Phan Don. We planned to have a day of bicycling and touring the Mekong rapids at the Laos-Cambodia border before returning to Don Kong in the afternoon. We were in a bit of a hurry to head north so we were planning to hire private transport when we returned. It felt like we could never catch a break and this was quickly shaping up to be yet another long and tiring day.

The pace started off relaxing enough as we rode two hours along the Mekong - reading our books and taking pictures en route. We were joined on the boat by two separate Austrian couples (they were the ones who originally recruited us to come as it cut down costs).

We got dropped off at 10am with only a goodbye waive and confirmation that the boat would be back to pick us up at 3pm. No one was particularly sure what to do next as we were literally on a small dirt path amid a string of wooden shacks lining the river, but after a short walk we found a place renting out bicycles. We all hopped on and set off down muddied paths (it rained all through the night) with brakes that didn't work. We must have looked a bit odd to the locals we passed as this is one of the few places on earth globalization still hasn't reached. Typically even the remotest of places have a satellite dish here or a TV there, but Si Phan Don has happily eluded such progress.

Below is a series of interesting photos taken while cycling. One of the pictures is particularly classic, and I am debating whether I should use it as my Christmas card for friends/family this year. I like to think it is George Bush in front followed by Tony Blair and John Howard.

Now that I have angered three of the most militarily active (and powerful) countries in the world I would like to say this was all in good fun. No hate emails, please. More seriously, here are a few other photos we took that will give a better indication of what the scenery for the 8km bicycle ride was like...

After an hour of cycling we reached an old Japanese bridge that was the only concrete structure we saw during our entire stay on the islands. In retrospect, I have no idea what this bridge was doing in southern Laos as it was quite impressive and sturdy. Anyway, we crossed the bridge and reached the southernmost island of Don Det. From the bridge it was only a couple more kilometers to the rapids that form the natural border between Laos and Cambodia. The path became even worse en route, and I was nearly successful on one of my childish attempts to force Jo into the mud. Sometimes I juts can't help being such a charming guy.

We had plenty of warning before we reached the rapids as the roar of the river could be heard from a long way off. The pictures below don't do  justice to the magnitude of the rapids, but they are the best I have got.

Before cycling back for lunch, Jo and I continued on to a small swimming area we were told about. Although the water resembled sewage and there was no one around (meaning we weren't really sure how safe it was to go swimming) neither one of us wanted to miss out on the chance to swim in the mighty Mekong River.

The water was a bit cold and our feet sunk six inches in the muck, but it was still fun splashing about. I was grateful I left my boxers on when I jumped in because two local Laos men came by after 15 minutes. It might have been a bit awkward getting out, otherwise. Speaking of getting out, we decided it was a good idea when something slid across both our legs at the same time. Sadly, I think I jumped higher than Jo.

We met the Austrian couples near the Japanese bridge for a relaxing lunch along the river. Both Jo and I have the exact same preference in food (with the sole exception being I love an excessive number of chilies), so we continued our habit of sharing dishes. This always works to our advantage because Asian dishes are meant to be shared. Typically, we order a plate of mixed vegetables, a meat dish, two steamed rice, and at least one large bottle of the local beer.

On the way back to the pick-up point my bicycle got a flat tire and I gave my legs a work-out I will probably come to regret. Making matters worse, I gave two small Laos boys a lift for a couple kilometers - one on my handle bars and another riding on the back. We drew a lot of attention from all the locals we passed and I could tell the boys were enjoying it just as much as I was.

The boat ride back to Don Kong took twice as long as we were fighting the current this time. By the time we arrived it was time for dinner, and we figured we might as well spend the night here and continue onward in the morning. We enjoyed a late dinner drinking and eating along the water with the Austrian couples before passing out from exhaustion.