February 21, 2007
Bukittinggi (SUMATRA)
Finally a Chance to Enjoy Myself and a Motorbike Ride for the Ages
After
checking into my hotel and bathing, I
decided it is better to spend the day seeing the
countryside of Bukittinggi than catching up on some much
needed sleep. First, I had some logistical
responsibilities that needed my attention. I
headed to a local internet cafe to send off a few
emails, print off several academic documents, and find
out why on earth Arsenal lost their Champions League
match with PSV Eindhoven (something I still can't get
over). Although it is a pain keeping my
academic affairs in order without the luxury of a desk
and all my belongings, I would rather be doing this
from Indonesia than my dormitory in Singapore.
At
around noon I began touring Bukittinggi. Although
there wasn't anything jaw-dropping to see, I had a few good
laughs at a hybrid park that was comprised of an old
Dutch fort, a worn down zoo, and a perky aviary. The parrots
had picked up the "cat call" whistle, and were
doing this every time some one walked by them. As for
the fort, well, it was more of a lookout tower that
wasn't big enough to look out over very much. I reached
the zoo by crossing over an
interesting bridge
that spanned
the main street of the city. I have seen my fare share
of elephants, camels, and reindeer so I didn't spend too
much time gawking - except for this little
gem.
After
fulfilling my duty to experience the city, I went to the bus station
in search of a
ride to the native Minangkabau countryside. I hopped
aboard an innocent looking minibus that was preparing to
leave with 12 people on board. As we headed
out of the
city the bus felt like it was stopping at every corner
to pick up
additional people - I couldn't believe my eyes when I
counted 24 people in the van.
Little did I know things would only get worse: we ended
up with 34 people piled one on top of another on the
inside, and the money collector hanging on to the outside of the van
(how I prayed he would be swiped off for what he was
doing to us). The whole ordeal felt
like a circus act, or one of those Volkswagen Beatle
competitions. I am afraid pictures do not do the situation
justice because not everyone is visible, but just imagine me in the back
of a hot minibus, my head
bent awkwardly downward because of the low roof, an elderly Muslim
woman laying on my lap, and my arms waving around while I try to snap pictures
of the ordeal.
The
bus let me off in a small village about an hour outside
the city. I made friends with a couple on the bus who
also happened to be getting off at my stop.
They ended
up arranging a ride for the remaining 20 kilometers
where I wanted to see the
largest example of Minangkabau architecture, the
Pagaruyung (King's Palace). Before I knew
what was happening, they had called over a 16 year old
boy from a local rice shop and I was climbing on the
back of his motorbike. He had the good sense to hand me
a helmet, but I was too busy smiling at the gawking
locals and taking pictures of the stunning scenery.
The
Pagaruyung was an impressive building for its
unique style, but I couldn't figure out what purpose the
strange design served - and it wasn't like anyone spoke
English. There wasn't really a whole lot to do after
looking at the building from a variety of angles, and
even that was stretching my ingenuity. I decided to wander around
the outskirts of the complex before finding a path that
led to a large gathering under an old oak tree (not sure
if it was oak, but you get the idea).
As I grew nearer I realized it was a school outing with ten moms and thirty young children playing a variety of games. I was hoping to observe them silently, but as soon as one of the moms noticed me she pointed me out, said something to the kids, and before I knew what was happening all thirty children were running toward me. The kids piled around me bearing those small teeth that are charming on young ones while the moms frantically snapped pictures. I ended up posing individually for each of the students while I held their hands. Since no one spoke English and I had already burned my Indonesian phrases, I awkwardly said goodbye when the photo shoot was over and did my best to figure out what just happened. The answer still hasn't come to me, but I am beginning to suspect they thought I was some one famous (presumably Brad Pitt or David Beckham - even I can't tell the difference at times).
Unwilling to head back to Bukittinggi just yet, I sat down with the vendors near the entrance and began making small talk. The locals took an immediate interest and abandoned their stalls (including the entrance gate) while we chatted for over two hours. The conversation was all over the place because no one was fluent in English, but between my tour book, pictures I had taken, and a lot of gesturing we had a great time conversing. I wish I could have stayed longer, but I was afraid I would miss the last minibus back to Bukittinggi for the night. I am contemplating going back tomorrow morning because one of the girls was absolutely stunning. It has been my theme thus far to "put the ball in play" and see what happens, so I may give this a try if I have the energy.
One
of the other girls who chatted with us offered to drive
me to a minibus stop and I readily agreed. I was back
aboard a motorbike, but this time the ride was far
wilder. I think she may have had a crush on me because
she never took me to the minibus. Instead, we rode for
over an hour through the unadulterated Minangkabau landscape in what
has easily become one of the more memorable experiences of my life.
The
photo gallery is worth
perusing because the rice
terraces, volcano backdrop, and farm workers were
from a world long forgotten. I took
video**
of my
favorite portion of the ride because it was too
difficult to snap proper photos while we were cruising at a
cool 80 kmh. Between the verdant rice paddies, the
curving road winding into the distance, and the
whipping sound of the wind, it was easy to block out all worries of the world.
Although any
accident would be instantly fatal, this was
an experience I could not pass up.
I finally made it back to my hotel at around 7pm and took a much needed shower. I then headed off to dinner where I had Indonesian soup with a mystery meat (most likely dog, but it is not wise to advertise such things on a menu). I am currently enjoying a cup of hot kopi in the glow of dawn with Muslim prayers being broadcast throughout the city. Days like this remind me why I am willing to endure such tiring hardships.
** NOTE: The link to the video may take about 7 minutes to download. I include it because I think it is worth the wait. iTunes is necessary to see the video, or you may use QuickTime Media Player - both are free downloads on the web. As always, feel free to email me if you have any difficulties**
