February 23, 2007
Danau Maninjau, Padang, Jakarta (INDONESIA)
Enjoying the Local Market and Traveling from Sumatra to Java
I made an early start this morning as I wanted to hike to a waterfall 4km from the lake. Armed only with the Indonesian word for waterfall, I had to switch motorbikes several times because friendly locals kept dropping me off at the wrong place. It's good to know the whole no signs thing doesn't just affect me.
When I found the village with the correct path to the
waterfall I stopped to have some breakfast and buy water
before beginning the hike. While I was eating a few locals started
chatting, and one of them actually spoke decent English.
He asked if I would be going to the waterfall alone (a
question I often get, and one that always makes me
somewhat nervous), and when I told him yes he seemed
quite surprised. After looking me over, he pointed out
that the locals only make the journey in long pants and
boots because it is 3km through knee deep jungle.
Looking down at my Tevo sandals and shorts, he only had
to say the word leeches for me to take the hint.
So no waterfall, but no way is ever broken in Sumatra.
I hopped on another motorbike and was dropped off at a market I had seen earlier in the morning. I was desperate to take pictures of the event, but walking around with my camera in hand is quite awkward. It always attracts the attention of the locals - their eyes drift immediately to my camera and their demeanor changes ever so slightly.
Since pictures aren't
readily available (other than the one to the right),
imagine a flea market occupying half a city block with
bright orange tarp overhangs that are only five feet off
the ground and ropes going every which way. Most of the
vendors were squatting with their goods, which ranged
from dried or live fish, a variety of fruits and coconuts, sets
of machetes and other tools, and a smattering of food
stalls. Between the low roof, the muddy ground, the dead
(or dying) fish, and the over-abundance of people, I had
to adjust my claustrophobia settings. I ended up buying
a variety of fruits I had never seen before, and always
got toothless smiles of warmth from the vendors (usually
an old woman).
Periodically, small groups of laughing kids would follow behind me, and on several occasions passing girls would veer ever so slightly into my path to brush arms. I figured it is not every day these Muslim girls have the chance to see a Western man in their market, and they were every bit as curious about new things as me.
I
next took an opelet (main form of local
transportation in Indonesia) to a town 25km from the
lake in hope of finding a ride to Sumatra's largest
city, Padang (where I would catch a flight to Jakarta).
While I was in Bukittinggi I heard horror stories about
48 hour bus rides from Padang to Jakarta, and at only
39USD it made far more sense to opt for the 90 minute
flight. I was curious if I would be flying in a twin
prop airplane because I have never seen a 39USD standard
fare.
I had to wait two hours for the next bus to pass through so I walked across the street to find a toilet. I passed a permanent food stall with ten people gathered around watching a game of Dominos, and as is often the case, the next thing I knew I was sitting in the middle of the group burning my Indonesian phrases. It is not as hard to pick up a language as one might think, but you must be selective with the words you learn. For instance, here are the words/phrases I have learned over the past few days:
1) I love Indonesia/Indonesian women - people always want to know what you think of their country, and this is a surefire way to get on their good side
2) He is crazy - there is always a jokester in the group, and this phrase is the best way to loosen up locals who might otherwise be nervous around a foreigner
3) Where is the toilet?
4) How much? Where? What time?
5) I am not married - many Indonesians have asked about my age and whether I am single
6) I speak little little - most locals respond with "little little" when asked if they speak English. They start laughing if you have the same response, but in their language
6) I am from America. But no George Bush - if the crazy joke or little-little joke don't work, this one always has the locals laughing and inviting me in
The bus picked me up just after 1pm, but I didn't arrive in Padang until the late afternoon. The bus ride was the craziest I have been on yet - we quite literally came within inches of everything from motorbikes to "taksis" to trucks transporting oil. While I was subconsciously clutching the seat in front of me the locals were cheering the driver on by banging the seats and tapping the windows with coins.
There
isn't a whole lot to say about the city of Padang,
except that it offered my first glimpse of the beautiful
Indian Ocean, and I chatted with local police officers
for about an hour. It was pot luck meeting the police as
I was simply walking the city and killing time. They
spoke better English than most people from Sumatra, but
I could tell how excited they were to hear I am from
America. I some times forget that despite all the
negative press directed toward the United States, there
is still a great longing and respect toward the country
and its people. As always, I gave them my contact
information with the hope they will some day have the
opportunity to visit me.
I caught my flight late in the evening, and arrived in Jakarta at 11pm. I met a terrific woman on the flight who has both an engineering degree and a law degree. I pumped her for information about her work, but she said it is a lot of paperwork, long hours, and a great deal of traveling. She found it very strange when I told her I wasn't Muslim, and that I do not even have a religion. She was kind-hearted about it, but told me that I cannot marry until I decide on my religion. I explained that if the girl is beautiful enough, any religion is fine with me.
That is enough for today. Tomorrow, I will tour Jakarta, Indonesia's wild capital. I have survived Sumatra, but who knows what Java has in store for me.
