May 20, 2007

Puerto Galera (PHILIPPINES)

A Philippine Paradise

Yesterday afternoon I bought a bus ticket to the long-distance boat terminal, so by 7am this morning I had already checked out of my room, eaten breakfast, and walked across town to the bus terminal. Seemingly no matter how hard I try I cannot get away from all the early mornings (I promise backpacking is anything but a vacation). The only positive is that the sun rises at 5:20 each morning and the country comes to life shortly after.

I was happy to be leaving Manila because the poverty is tough to see. The train stations are littered with bloated children and the streets are crowded with people desperate to make money any way they can. It is a shame because Philippinos are easy going and friendly, but with so many people in the country (and with so many who flock to Manila) there aren't enough facilities to handle everyone. Thus rises the dark side of the city.

By noon I reached the boat terminal, and after asking around for the best beaches I was directed to a boat destined for White Beach, near Puerto Galera. The boats were all rigged with bamboo stabilizers, but there is no safety when typhoon season hits, and most travel services shut down. Fortunately, I am a couple months ahead and don't have to worry about braving some of the world's most violent storms.

The boat pulled onto White Beach  later in the afternoon (from here on out I can tell time doesn't matter), and I searched around before settling on a small bungalow 50m inland. Dorms don't exist here, but I don't mind because the price of a nice chalet is every bit as cheap - especially considering I am staying over the course of several days outside the peak weekend time.

After dropping off my bags and taking a cold shower I set off to explore the beach. It was still Sunday so there were hordes of weekenders from Manila swarming the beaches and cafes. It wasn't the deserted Philippine beach I had imagined, but hour-by-hour the beach cleared out as people caught boats back to the mainland.

I came across a small cafe perched atop a rocky outset that advertised diving lessons. This is something I have been interested in pursuing for two reasons: 1) everyone I have met in Southeast Asia has raved about the joys of diving, and 2) I want to overcome my fear of sharks. So, I talked with the dive master and agreed to begin my diving lessons the following morning. The price is incredibly cheap (by Western diving standards), but still a lot for a backpacker like myself, so I arranged to begin with an introductory dive to make sure this is what I want. We would begin the following morning at - you guessed it - 7am.

I simply cannot escape these mornings.

Fortunately, I cannot escape beautiful sunsets, either...

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