November 4, 2007

Tokyo (JAPAN)

Viewing Japan's National Museum and a Performance by the Tokyo Philharmonic Orchestra

Today was a long day, but as has become the norm for my time in Tokyo it was a day overflowing with great experiences. For example, it is not everyday one gets to meet the President of Sony or see the personal collection of Japan's greatest shogun, Tokugawa.

Perhaps I am getting ahead of myself though because the morning began painfully. That is to say, the morning began early, and as such it took longer for the steaming shower to wake me up and an extra cup of coffee was necessary to keep me up. Kumagai sai and I planned to visit Japan's National Museum at Ueno in the morning, and then to attend a concert conducted by one of the founders of Sony, Ohga san, who kindly gave us free tickets to the performance. So, before heading out for the day I put on my freshly laundered suit and, looking spiffy, downed one last cup of coffee before walking to Shinagawa station.

It was a short ride to Ueno station on the Yamanote Line, but once we exited from the station it was painfully obvious that the fine Autumn weather brought out half of Tokyo to Ueno Park. This didn't bother me too much as it is one of my favorite places in Tokyo - there is plenty of greenery, cultural exhibits, and a never-ending supply of families going for a stroll. I probably stuck out like a sore thumb as there were no other gai-jin in sight, and I was, to put it mildly, slightly overdressed for a morning stroll in the park.

Kumagai san bought our tickets to the National Museum, and we headed straight for the much-hyped Tokugawa exhibition. With all the people crowded against the glass exhibit windows, it felt like the half of Tokyo not found in Ueno park were all visiting this museum alongside me. Nevertheless, I was at a distinct advantage because I towered over everyone and always had a clear line of sight for the various relics. On display was over 300 year's worth of fine goods collected by the strongest family in Japanese history (neglecting the emperor's line), the Tokugawa clan. Although pictures were forbidden inside the museum, on display were such items as samurai armor, katana swords, kimonos, tea ceremony sets, fine porcelain, calligraphy and painted screens, and various other valuables. Best of all, Kumagai san acted as my guide throughout everything, which was a far more useful history lesson than any number of books or lectures combined.

After nearly four hours of viewing the various exhibits, we were both understandably worn out and rested at a cafe near Ueno park. I had a late lunch consisting of shrimp tempura served over soba noodles, but the most important part of the meal were the two cups of coffee, guaranteeing I would not become drowsy during the performance.

We entered the reception area of the concert hall at 3:30pm, and I handed over the two large bouquets I was holding - one for the conductor/co-founder of Sony, Ohga san, and the other for his personal secretary, Ashizawa san. It was with the help of both Ohga san and Ashizawa san that I was able to have the current home stay, and coupled with the tickets for tonight's performance I am deeply indebted to their kindness.

The evening's performance was Verdi's Requiem, and it was dedicated to one of the deceased founders of Sony, Morita san. As impressive as the music was, and it was directed by Ohga san as a commemoratory act toward Morita san, equally impressive was the showcase of high profile individuals also in attendance. For example, Kumagai san said hello to the President of Sony  - an individual I have read much about, but never imagined to meet in person.

By the time we finally got home it was 8pm, and I quickly changed into shorts and a t-shirt so I could head down to the public baths. I have been going 2-3 times a week, and at only $3 per visit it is a cheap way to unwind. Whereas I was one tentative about walking around with only a hand towel, it has now become a mere matter of course. Funnily enough, Toyama san's wife works at an all-girls school near Shinagawa-kita, and another of the teachers told her about a gai-jin who is going to the public baths (it is a very Japanese thing to do). Looks like the rabbit is out of the hat.