January 21, 2008

Tokyo (JAPAN)

My First Sumo Tournament at Tokyo's Famous Ryogoku Arena

This afternoon I caught the Sobu line from Akihabara to Ryogoku Station, which is located next to Tokyo's impressive Ryogoku building (sumo hall.) I immediately met up with two friends from Tokyo University: Yu, who is the Editor-in-chief of the university newspaper, and Yuta, who is a sumo expert and regular attendee. They were to act as my guides for the evening for one of the most recognizable events in Japanese culture.

Our tickets were 3600 yen each, and this was only for the nose-bleed seats. Had we opted to sit on the lower level, where the seating is partitioned into blocks that seat groups of four people on mats, we would each have been looking at spending 10,000 yen on up. Price aside, lower-level seating was never going to be an option for me because there were only round cushions on the ground for comfort. There is no way I could endure sitting cross-legged for several hours.

Our seats turned out to be fairly decent as the sumo hall rarely fills to capacity on Monday afternoons, and we were free to find seats with a better vantage. By the time we settled in the first sumo ceremony began, and all the sumo wrestlers came out to the ring and formed a circle. I smiled knowing that right before my eyes were the 20 biggest men in all Japan.

Afterward, the two Yokozuna wrestlers each stayed on and performed a ritual in the center of the ring, requesting the help of the gods (Shinto religion). Among traditionalists, sumo is still viewed more as a spiritual event in Japan than as a sport, but obviously modern culture and the lure of money have begun to change all that.

When I was young, I thought yokozuna was the name of a famous sumo wrestler, but in fact it is the title bestowed upon the top wrestler from the East and West divisions. Also, the word yokozuna actually refers to a kind of ceremonial rope worn by the two top wrestlers (zuna meaning something like "belt" and yoko meaning something like "horizontal"). The yokozuna (attire) can be seen in the picture to the left, and this picture was taken while performing the ritual of asking for the help of the gods before the matches began.

As for the matches, they are decided by a select panel of sumo officials one day in advance, and the selection is based on who has wrestled who and one's relative rank. So, with the 42 wrestlers in the maku-uchi (elite league) divided into higashi (east) and nishi (west) divisions, sumo wrestlers will have one match every day with another wrestler from the same division. However, matching is made based on one's relative standing, so the lowest ranked sumo wrestler will never face the yokozuna or ozeki (second highest rank) from his division. Then, after 14 matches (two weeks), the sumo wrestler with the most points (from both divisions) becomes the new yokozuna, and the pack is reshuffled across divisional lines. Should there be a tie at the end of the two weeks period, an additional head-to-head match is held, but there is often no final match and never a knock-out tournament.

Here is how each match works...

As is stated above, the fixtures list is produced in advance, so wrestlers all know who they will face and in what order - starting from the weakest, finishing with the strongest, and alternating between nishi and higashi matches. When the two opposing wrestlers enter the ring, which is a sacred place, they squat down in the starting position and mentally prepare themselves, but not fight. Instead, the gyoji (something like a referee) will turn his back to them for 5-10 minutes, allowing them to prepare. While all this is going on, men carrying advertisements will circle the ring. This is important because each advertisement costs 25,000 yen, and the money goes to the winner at the end of the match as a kind of bonus (the sumo wrestlers are paid by the sumo federation at the end of the season, and the level of pay depends on one's final ranking).

When the gyoji finally signals that the match can begin - basically by facing the men - it is up to the wrestlers themselves to choose when to start. The first thing they will do is head for their respective corners to gather strength - often slapping themselves loudly and stomping their feet. (One wrestler in particular, Takamisakari, is famous for being particularly extravagant in the lengths he will go to during the slapping/stomping process, and I have seen him on a variety of Japanese commercials capitalizing on his popularity.) When the men walk back into the ring each throws a fistful of salt as a means of purifying the ground. Next, they squat facing each other, separated by about one meter, and again there is no signal for when to start - the wrestlers look at each other and somehow come to an agreement (often after putting one fist on the ground and looking at the opponent).

Often, one wrestler looks like he was shot out of a cannon, and the other is forced to apply a deflecting technique. There are something like 46 different techniques, so it is not all just about pushing the other guy around. If that was the case, then Miyabiyama, the heaviest wrestler at 184 kg, would win every match. Instead, wrestlers can reach for their opponent's mawashi, or thong-like cloth, and use it to flip the opponent or gain leverage. One of my questions was obviously what happens if the mawashi comes off, but I was assured this never happens, and if it does the wrestler is disqualified (although I did see one partially torn apart later in the evening). Another aspect of sumo that got my attention was the allowance of both harite (slapping) and shote (striking an opponent with the base of the hand), but no clenched fists. Quite often the wrestler with the longer arms would continuously strike his opponent trying to block his line of vision. Finally, a match is deemed over when one wrestler touches the ground outside the ring, or when a knee/elbow/hand touches the ground inside the ring (similar to the rules in American football).

As may be obvious from the picture, the ring, called a tokutawara (literally "lucky ring"),  is not perfectly circular. Instead, it has four imperfections that allow a wrestler a place to stand when he might otherwise be out of the ring - hence the name "lucky ring." Also, the sumo ground itself is raised roughly one meter off the ground to signify it is a holy place, and this often results in wrestlers being sent for a tumble when they are thrown out of the ring. While there were no accidents while I was there, it is not hard to imagine the severity if some one was not paying attention.

That should be enough background information, now for the actual video footage...

This first video is between Asashoryu (very famous/notorious yokozuna, on the right at start) and Ama (sekiwake, or third-ranking sumo, on the left at start). It is an excellent match showing several impressive techniques, and more excitement than a standard sumo match (which can be over in a matter of seconds). Note the following: (1) in second 15 a massive harite (slap) is landed by Ama, (2) soon after both grab a hold of each other's mawashi (thong) and compete for leverage, (3) I scream "ose!" in second 25, urging Asashoryu to "push" Ama out of the ring, (4) Ama makes use of the oddly shaped ring with his right foot in second 33, and prevents himself from being pushed out, (5) how Asashoryu finally flips him in second 42 with incredible strength after the long fight, and (6) how little respect Asashoryu pays to his opponent, which is why 50% of the people love him for his strength and 50% of the people hate his lack of honor. As Yuta pointed out later, "sumo is not a sport, it is about honor."

This next video shows another good match between two wrestlers whose names I have forgotten. Things to notice: (1) the gyoji facing the wrestlers, (2) how the match starts as soon as the left wrestler puts his fist fist on the ground and looks up, (3) the way the wrestler in black looks like he will lose until he grabs his opponent's mawashi in second 15 and swings him around before applying a final ose (push), and (4) although the video cuts off, you can see a sumo wrestler being flung out of the ring and how easily they can crush people.

This last video shows the other yokozuna, Hakuho, competing with Wakanosato, a mid-ranking wrestler from the Higashi division. Worth noting is the way in which Hakuho (on the left at start) quickly grabs his opponent's mawashi, and from then on he is in complete control. Wakanosato does his best to reach for Hakuho's mawashi, but it is no use. The flip in second 25 is still particularly impressive - don't forget, that is a 160 kg man who does not want to be flipped. Commentary from the video refers to "nata", which means "wait" and was said by the gyoji in second six since Wakanosato was not ready to stay.

After the event was over we decided to have chanko nabe ("sumo wrestler hot pot") at a very traditional restaurant only 10 minute's walk from the ryogoku arena. Yuta knew his way around the neighborhood, and he he led the way. At the restaurant, we were shown to a small room on the second floor with tatami mats for flooring and tables only 40 cm off the ground. I took off my shoes at the entrance, and was kindly offered the honorary position - the one farthest from the door - at the low table. I struggled to find a comfortable position - I have never been able to kneel forward, sitting on my legs as is custom in Japan - but I managed to sit in a hybrid-cross-legged style that worked just fine.