Today was one of those rare capstone days that will live with me forever. However, the day definitely had modest beginnings...

Despite yesterday being chock-full of activities, and the night chock-full of drinking, I pulled myself together at 5:50 a.m. and set off for the local train station in SAITAMA. Fortunately, I had already made Shindo-san promise to take me, so I woke him from his drunken slumber and had him drive me to the nearest train station. (For anyone worried about drunken driving, which was possible considering the circumstances, we did not pass a soul on the way given that this is a very rural area.) Even the train station was deserted, and my SUICA card (magnetic card storing money for trains) was useless. I printed directions yesterday detailing the transfers necessary to reach Tokyo, but I was not looking forward to the 2.5 hour train ride to come...

In the end, I had to stand for two hours because it was a Saturday morning and seemingly everyone in Japan was heading into Tokyo. Given that I only got a few hours of sleep and was battling a tremendous hangover, this was far more painful than it sounds!

I reached the house at around 10:00 a.m., and as usual Kumagai-san hardly gave me a moment's rest - it was a new day and there were things to be done, including a house party and an OMATSURI. So, I quickly showered, pounded a cup of coffee, and set off with her to do some last minute grocery shopping in Old Shinagawa. (Basically, I was the slave with the unenviable task of carrying all the groceries home.) Nevertheless, it was an interesting walk because I caught Kumagai-san up on all of yesterday's activities, and we saw the start of the weekend's OMATSURI celebrations.

Basically, an OMATSURI is a traditional Japanese festival that is held at important times of the year. This weekend was a special occasion for the Kita-Shinagawa neighborhood because the local Shinto god, or KAMI, would be carried around the neighborhood by residents. Given that Kita-Shinagawa is located in inner-Tokyo, and there is a very famous, ancient shrine nearby, this particular OMATSURI is very unique. Most importantly, Kumagai-san arranged for me to take part in the festivities by helping other GOTENYAMA (the neighborhood in which we live) residents carry the OMIKOSHI, or portable Shinto shrine.

With the help of a cleaning lady who comes every Saturday, we finished our party preparations just before the first guests arrived at 1:00 p.m. In all, there were about 20 people (representing four continents) at the party, which is remarkable in Japan. Typically, even close friends never visit each other's homes because (1) the home (often an apartment) is not big enough, and (2) Japanese often prefer to keep their internal affairs private. However, Kumagai-san is no normal person, and her guest list indicated that: the guests ranged from lawyers to businessmen, and at any given time four or five different languages were being spoken (although everyone was also fluent in English).

I had a great time going around meeting everyone even though I looked like a SUSHI SHOKUNIN (すし職人, or sushi chef) in my traditional festive attire. The OMATSURI TABI (お祭りたび), shown to the right, are particularly fashionable, as is the dragon-styled HACHIMAKI (鉢巻, or bandana). A special thanks to Kumagai-san who purchased my outfit!

At 3:30 p.m. I excused myself and left to meet the other men who would carry the OMIKOSHI. Although I had been warned numerous times about the difficulties to come, I had no idea what was in store for me. I mean, how hard can carrying a portable shrine be?!

The only proper way to cover the event is to use a slideshow of photos. This will make it more interesting and give a semblance of order to what was otherwise a day of madness.

Money shot!		All things considered, it really was remarkable.	Start of the festivities. We are carrying an OMIKOSHI (portable Shinto shrine), which weighs roughly 500 kg (1100 lbs).	The point of this event is to carry the KAMI (Shinto god, see red masked figure on OMIKOSHI) through the neighborhood as part of a yearly tradition.
And the OMIKOSHI can never be allowed to touch the ground!	Japanese man playing traditional flute while another beats the drums. We march, in turn.	The technique is to position the wooden beam on your shoulder and swing your arm over the beam. (See man on left.)	Ichikawa-san, the man who leads our group. (In "real life," he is a head-hunter for corporate executives)	What cannot be seen from these photos is the rigorous shaking/bouncing we are doing.
I am still feeling good (5 minutes into the 3 hour ordeal).	Daniel, a Brazilian man who is working in SONY's Tokyo HQ. Interestingly, he speaks four languages (Portuguese, English, Spanish, and French)	Once more, demonstrating that we can handle anything... And at the time, we could because everyone was still fresh.	Elderly Japanese men who can no longer carry the OMIKOSHI	Walking through Old Shinagawa, 30 minutes into the ordeal.
This is starting to take a toll on me.	Catching my breath.	I feel no pain	Preparing to lift the OMIKOSHI.	The GOTENYAMA (neighborhood in which I live) group is famous for swinging the OMIKOSHI non-stop to demonstrate that we feel no pain.
	By this point, we had a massive crowd following us.	And men clearing our way through the streets.		When Daniel realized enough is enough, this is madness.
And yes, MADNESS it was!	Pinched nerves, bruised shoulders, and the blood vessels are starting to clog.	But we had to keep putting on a brave face.	Hell, a HAPPY face.	And on we went...
		Sweat was covering me from head to toe, by this point, 1 hour in.	Others have it EASY	But at least we get the attention and recognition!
Ichikawa-san leading the OMIKOSHI		More lifting...	A big part of the problem was that I was taller than everyone, and so bore more of the weight.
A still-frame from one of our many "let's show all we have got" demonstrations... Basically bouncing the OMIKOSHI and swinging it from side to side.	Naturally, this is the most painful thing you can do, which is why it is so important to do it and show our commitment to the KAMI	Young girl dressed as a GEISHA (although I doubt her teeth are dyed black, as was the custom in the past).	More strenuous lifting... I look like a beaver.	A French friend snapping photos.
Continuing to wind our way through Old Shinagawa on the way to Shinagawa Jinja (an important shrine).		The shrine is at the end of this road... At last!	But it took us 20 minutes to go down this road because we had to further demonstrate our commitment to the KAMI.	The shrine is up those steps across the street....
New people jump in to help... The people in the front were rotated every minute or so because they were tasked with shaking the OMIKOSHI non-stop.	While those of us in the middle had to bear the brunt of their lifting up and pulling down.	...Another lift...	...And holding it for over a minute...	Preparing to start climbing
What am I getting myself into?!	The police clear our way.	With the first step, I knew this was madness... We were all tripping over each other, meaning the OMIKOSHI was swaying violently.	And if this thing fell, it WOULD crush people to death (it happens every year).	15 hours ago I had finished a day of rafting and was happily drinking with my lab-mates.
Now, I am wondering if I will ever survive this.	The confusion continues.	Up FIFTY-TWO steps!!	And we were bouncing it on every step to show this was "easy"...	Every 5 steps we went down 3 to show that we could do this forever...
But we made it to the top, eventually.	And danced around in the courtyard of Shinagawa Jinja for 15 minutes of nonstop shaking and running - to the amazement of our ever-growing crowd.	Another lift!	More running and stampeding from side to side.	A moment's rest at the shrine while the priests blessed the shrine (it rested on supports so as not to touch the ground).
Needing to escape the madness to recollect myself.	Money shot.	But we are only half done - we still have to go BACK! And going down was FAR WORSE!!	By the end, I was literally DRENCHED in sweat. But beer awaited!!	This probably gave me an ulcer.
	Daniel and I	Friends posing while we took one of two rests (the second being at the shrine).	At least we had plenty of support!	A real cultural experience!

The festivities finished at around 7:00 p.m., but everyone hung around to eat and drink together outside the luxurious Hotel Laforet (which kindly supplied the beer and food). However, I only had a few cans to celebrate with the other men, despite their loud protestations - I was the only person who carried the OMIKOSHI the entire way (not getting changed out). However, I wanted to return to the house so I could re-join the other party. After a quick shower, I headed to the roof where a dozen of us spent the next couple of hours chatting, drinking, and eating. All in all, it was a tremendous day, and I count myself lucky for having had the opportunity to experience it.