June 26,
2008
Tokyo
JAPAN
Ukiyo-e Exhibition
in Harajuku, Meiji Shrine, My First Time
Shopping for Clothes in Years (Omotesandou Hills,
Nonetheless!), and Dinner at an Italian Restaurant
Today
was my mother's first full day in Japan, so there was
much on the agenda with nowhere near the required energy
to accomplish it all. Nevertheless, I gave it a valiant
go when I showed her around Harajuku Station for
the afternoon/evening. We started with the UKIYO-E
(浮世絵,
or "pictures of the floating world") exhibition at the
Ota Memorial
Museum of Art.
This genre is the main form of woodblock printing that
is so famous to Japanese art. Most famous are the 36
Views of Mt Fuji, which most people have probably
seen without ever realizing what they are looking at -
the most popular print is shown to the right.
Afterward,
I took her along Harajuku's notoriously strange
back-streets where COSPLAY shops are in
abundance, as are other semi-perverse oddities. Our
destination was MEIJI JINGU (明治神宮),
which is the most-frequented shrine in all of Tokyo.
Shown to the left is one of the massive gates, made from
Japanese cedar, through which one enters the park. Once
inside, there exists roughly 700,000 sq. meters (175
acres) with some 100,000 trees and 365 different
species.
It
was a somewhat rainy day today so we missed out on the
COSPLAY aficionados who typically hang out around the
park's entrance, posing in photographs for ecstatic
(shocked?) foreigners. Nevertheless, the rain also
scared away most tourists, so the park was even more
peaceful than usual.
Built for the Meiji Emperor
and his wife nearly 100 years ago, this shrine is a
forest of peace in what is otherwise the world's most
hectic city (with the possible exception of New York
City). I demonstrated how to perform the Shinto rituals,
such as cleansing one's self and praying correctly at
the inner shrine. Such serenity really is a pleasant
thing to find in the mayhem of Tokyo - often foreigner's
biggest complaint about the city is there is nowhere to
simply escape.
The next item on the agenda
for the afternoon was shopping, which "is a mother's
prerogative." Embarrassingly enough, this is the first
time I have been to a shopping mall to buy clothes in
years. The clothes in my room all fall into one of
three different categories: (1) they were purchased
while I was living in the United States (2005 and
earlier), (2) they were gifts, or (3) they were made in
China. So, I was very appreciative for the motherly
indulgence for what turned into a two-three hour
shopping escapade at the incredibly chic Omotesandou
Hills. We had to rush home as soon as we finished to
drop off the bags because we were meeting Maki-san and
Takumi at Shinagawa's Takanawa taxi stand
at 8:45 p.m. for an Italian dinner at Davis.
Located
in the exclusive Shirogane district, the Italian
restaurant would have been impossible to find without
the help of a printed map and GPS-equipped taxi (all
Japanese taxis have an on-board GPS system, as do most
personal vehicles). We made a late reservation, so for
the first hour we were seated at an outdoor table where
we drank wine and ordered half the appetizers on the
menu, ranging from shellfish to carpaccio. Two
bottles of wine later, we were sitting inside trying to
find room for the main courses for the evening - a
hopeless task considering the number one priority for
the evening was the wine... We ended up walking, or
stumbling, home after dinner on a 20 minute walk back to
the house in Gotenyama.
Even back in the safe
confines of the house the alcohol continued to flow as
Maki-san opened a new bottle of Japanese UMESHU (梅酒,
or plum wine), which my mother loved for its sweet
taste. I decided to leave Maki-san and her to enjoy the
alcohol by themselves while I tried to catch up on the
sleep I have missed out on for the past week. (It should
go without saying that I will never catch up, but with
days as interesting as this why would I ever complain?)