June 28,
2008
Oita
JAPAN
A Morning Flight to
Oita (Island of Kyushu), Touring the
Countryside, Amazing Onsen Architecture, Onsen
Life, the Otsuribashi Suspension Bridge, and the Royal
Deluxe Suite at a Japanese Ryoukan
At 3:50 a.m. I woke-up, and
immediately recognized that I have a serious
defect: I set alarms, but never have the chance to use
them because I naturally wake up before they go off. It
is the oddest quirk, especially considering it doesn't
matter what time I go to sleep or decide to wake. This morning was
even more bizarre because I managed less than two hours
of sleep last night - surely there is an ingrained
function to acquire enough rest? Even so, as I grabbed my dirty
laundry and headed down to the washing machine on the
ground floor, I passed Maki-san working away on her
laptop computer. I made a couple cups of coffee, and
joined her at the kitchen table as I mimicked her work
ethic.
The
house began coming to life at 5:00 a.m. as my mother
joined us for breakfast - fresh fruit and pastries. I
rushed to take care of all the last-minute chores, such
as watering the plants (inside and on the roof), taking
care of Niko-chan (the only cat I will ever
like), and packing for the next six days. By 5:55 a.m.
we were heading out the door, and soon thereafter we
caught a taxi to the Monorail station near
Shinagawa Harbor.
On
the train to Haneda Airport, I was GENKI (feeling
active and healthy) for the first five minutes, and then
fatigue (and sleep) set in. The next thing I knew, we were at the end
of the line, disembarking at Terminal 2. I was probably
drooling all over myself for the ride, much to the
amusement of my mother.
Our ANA flight landed in
OITA (大分), on the southern
island of KYUSHU (九州), at around 9:15 a.m. The
flight was only one hour or so, which is paradoxical in
that it demonstrates how small and large Japan is
depending on one's perspective. For example, a one hour
flight is not even enough to fly from Miami, Florida to
the nearest state, Georgia. Yet, a one hour flight in
Japan, or even a 30 minute flight for that matter, is
like entering a whole new world. Such is the magic found
in the "land of the rising sun."
We were met at the airport
by Mutu-san and his wife, who is a friend of
Maki-san's from her university days, 30+ years ago (she will
probably poison my food for giving such
hints as to her age). Our group for the weekend
numbered 11 people in total, and it was basically a
reunion for Maki-san and three of her friends from
university: Mutu-san, Yoshiko-san, and Sai-san.
Sai-san's husband and their two daughters, Juna-chan
(21) and Meina-chan (25), also came along for the
weekend, as did Takumi.
We spent the morning
touring the OITA area, but a strong mist and drizzly
weather prevented us from seeing much. Well, that and
the fact that I passed out in the backseat of the car,
waking only for lunch and when Takumi woke me to point
something out, such as Mount Aso (an active
volcano)... With such uncooperative weather, we
changed out touring plans in mid-course so that we could
visit ONSEN and relax.



The
first ONSEN we went to was designed by a Tokyo
University professor who is famous for his captivating
architectural style (his unique style should be obvious
from the background of the photo the right). The
highlight of this ONSEN was not only the architecture,
but also the carbonated water. This was my
first experience in a "bubbly" hot spring, and
although the water was only moderately warm in
temperature, the unique feel will have me coming back in
the future - it was like taking a bath in hot San
Pellegrino!



Afterward,
we walked around the nearby town, where Japanese men
wearing YUKATA (浴衣, or traditional men's kimonos)
spend the day going from ONSEN to ONSEN. It was as
peaceful a town as one will ever encounter and there
were even public hot baths speckled in nooks and
crannies. Fortunately, Mutu-san and his wife live in
Oita, and were able to act as our guides (and drivers)
for the weekend. They pointed out a variety of things we
would have otherwise missed out on, such as the public
ONSEN (shown below) that was built in the middle of a
running river. If we had more time, I would have loved
to give it a try, although only after the cleaning man
finished his work.



The
next place on the agenda was the Kokonoe Yume Otsuribashi Suspension Bridge, which at 390 meters
in length and 173 meters in height is the longest
footpath suspension bridge in Japan. It was built in
2006 at an enormous cost, but it has already
attracted over 2 million visitors (at 400 yen/person),
so it appears as if the investment is quickly being
recovered. I could feel the bridge shaking slightly in
the wind, but it felt stable enough to endure far more
severe weather; only time will tell how well it
withstands earthquakes. Nevertheless, the views from the bridge were
amazing, which is why it has become so popular with
tourists.



It was nearly 4:30 p.m.
when we hopped back in the cars and set off to check
into our hotel for the evening. Sai-san's husband is the
head of the Entertainment Division for Morgan Stanley in
Japan, so he arranged a number of unique experiences
that would not have otherwise been possible. For
example, we were staying in the Royal Deluxe Suite
at an ONSEN-styled Ryoukan (旅館,
or Japanese inn). In our suite there were half a dozen
rooms, a kitchen, an amazing 15 meter wide balcony, and
even a hot tub. After putting our bags down, Takumi and
I immediately changed into the YUKATA provided,
although I had to call down to the ground floor to
request the largest size in stock, which still ended up
being slightly small for me.

Dinner
was served at 7:00 p.m. in a private room while we all
sat on TATAMI mats. There were three hostesses who
stayed with us the entire time, refilling glasses of
beer/NIHONSHU/SHOCHU and bringing out dish-after-dish
(over a dozen in all). The traditional-styled meals are
one of the biggest highlights of staying at a Japanese
Ryoukan - they are included in the price, while the food,
presentation, and service are of the highest standard.
After
finishing dinner, everyone was feeling the effects of
alcohol, but no one wanted to call it a night so early.
So, we moved the party up to our room on the top floor,
buying party snacks (soy sauce-flavored chips, KAKIPI,
sweets, dried fish, etc) and ordering more alcohol in
the process. The party broke off at around 11:00 p.m. to
leave time for everyone to have one last trip to the
ONSEN downstairs, which closes at midnight. With a small
hand towel in hand, I de-robed and entered the men's
only bathing area. I sat on one of the showering stools
to clean myself with soap and shampoo, and then headed
for the sauna with Takumi. We rotated between the sauna
and the ice-bath every 10 minutes, discussing our
business plans for the future all the while. Lastly, I
headed outside and sat underneath one of the ONSEN
waterfalls while relaxing in the hot bath. Heavenly, and
it made sleep easy to come by later that night.